Where to dine #3

RESTAURANT: Frenchie
Because the 20-odd spots in this tiny, cozy treasure chest of a restaurant are some of the most sought-after in Paris. Because the menu changes every day so you can keep going back. Because if there are two of you, you can order everything on it. And you should. Because even if you're an unemployed, struggling author, you can still afford it.

Frenchie
5 rue du Nil, Paris 2ème
metro: Sentier
01.40.39.96.19

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RESTAURANT: Café Charlot

Because it is one of the many new spots in this area that will give you the sudden feeling of being transported to New York's LES, but with great French food (for a similar ambiance, see Drôle d'endroit pour une rencontre on the Rue Montorgueil). Because it's simple, friendly, and full of fun locals who come back, again and again. Because you'll never want to leave and no one will make you.

Café Charlot

38 rue de Bretagne, Paris 3ème

metro: Filles du Calvaire

01.44.54.03.30

Where to dine #2

RESTAURANT: Les Gars dans la Cuisine

Because the deco is 70s kitsch meets 00s gay über-cool. Because the dishes are classic with a trendy twist. Because the prices are ridiculously low and the ingredients mouth-wateringly fresh.

Les Gars dans la Cuisine

72 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3ème

metro: Rambuteau, Filles du Calvaire

01.42.74.88.26

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CREPERIE: Breizh Café

Because they're the best crêpes in Paris. Because this place does both traditional and not-quite-traditional-but-you-wonder-why-no-one-thought-to-put-those-things-together-on-a-crêpe-before. Because the smallest eater I know finished her main course AND her dessert when we went there. It's that good. (PS: I recommend you book in advance!)

Breizh Café

109 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3ème

metro: St Sébastien Froissard

01.42.72.13.77

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RESTAURANT / BAR: Au Rocher de Cancale

Because downstairs it's full of pretty young things, loud music and strange art on the walls. Because upstairs it's actually quiet enough to notice the place is 150 years old. Because it's fun to have fusion food in an 1850s setting.

Update: And because it was apparently a favourite of Paris' first restaurant critic, Grimod, in his 1805 Almanach: see here.

Au Rocher de Cancale

78 rue Montorgueil, Paris 2ème

metro: Etienne Marcel

01.42.33.50.29

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RESTAURANT / HOTEL: Hôtel Amour

Because it's a brothel. Because now you're just dying to check whether or not I'm kidding. Because they have macaroni & cheese and one of the best restaurant terraces in Paris. (Oh, and the hotel looks pretty nice too, though I haven't tried it myself).

Hôtel Amour

8 rue Navarin, Paris 9ème

01.48.78.31.80

metro: Saint-Georges, Pigalle

Where to raise your glass #2

BAR: La Perle
Because it is simplicity itself. And therefore cool somehow. Because it's always full of local 20 to 30-somethings. Because it's on my favourite street.

La Perle
78 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3ème
metro: Rambuteau, Filles du Calvaire

Where to shop for unnecessary desirables #2

CLOTHES: Shouka
Because it's Art's collection is silky, smooth, feminine and wearable. Because it's a real Marais boutique, with stone walls, wooden beams, and a friendly (rather dashing) owner. Because it's the opposite of H&M (no offence to our Swedish friends). Because both your wardrobe, and your banker, will thank you.

Shouka
Art's collection
78 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3ème
metro: Rambuteau, Filles du Calvaire

Where to enjoy the summer #1

CAFE TERRACE: Le Relais de la Butte
Because the panoramic view of Paris will make you giddy. Even if you live here. Even if the service leaves to be desired. Because let's face it, you're in Montmartre, sipping a fruit cocktail, feeling Amélie-esque and basking in sunshine and everyone wants to be you.

Le Relais de la Butte
12 rue Ravignan, Paris 18ème
metro: Abbesses (that's right, not even my neighbourhood!)

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SPOT: Paris Plage

Because while I know what you're thinking, it's actually wonderful. Because the monuments are all around you but you're pretending to be on a beach. Because if you nab a table at the ad hoc crêperie between the Pont Louis-Philippe and the Pont d'Arcole, you can sip a glass of off-pink wine with the Seine at your feet and the sun setting over the bridges. Because they have loads of other things too (pétanque, boats, etc) if you're feeling a bit more active.

Paris Plage

Along the river stretching out on both sides of Hôtel de Ville

Hurry, it ends August 20th!

Where to raise your glass #1

CAFE: Café Beaubourg
Because, while admittedly overpriced, it has one of the best car-free, people-watching terraces in Paris. Because there's a small chance the art from next door might seep in subliminally while you're having your beer, making you terribly cultured.

Café Beaubourg
43 rue Saint Merri, Paris 4ème
metro: Rambuteau

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BAR: Andy Wahloo
Because the deco is loosely based on the very Parisian (and strangely not considered either derogatory or racist) concept of the "Petit Arabe du Coin," North-African style. Because it's tiny and intimate (which makes it a bit too crowded on Fridays and Saturdays, though). Because the DJ is likely to play music you've never heard before but immediately think is very cool. Because the house cocktail with ginger makes you go "Woh."

Andy Wahloo
69 rue de Gravilliers, Paris 3ème
metro: Arts et Métiers

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BAR: La Belle Hortense
Because it's a great place to have a glass of wine before having your Tarte Tatin à la Tomate at the Philosophes. Because it's actually a bookstore, and having wine in a bookstore is one of those things that has to be done.

La Belle Hortense
31 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 4ème
metro: Saint Paul

Where to dine #1

RESTAURANT: Derrière
Because all I can tell you is It's Just Really Cool. That's all I'm going to say. And because of the Narnia wardrobe. I'm really not telling you anything else. Just go. (Oh, and the fish is excellent).

Derrière
69 rue des Gravilliers, Paris 3ème
metro: Arts et Métiers
01.44.61.91.95

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RESTAURANT: Le Réconfort
Because I've been going here for years, and even though the place has abandoned its cutesy-colourful look in favour of designer-chic, the menu has essentially stayed the same. Because said menu is printed inside second-hand books. Because the food is simple, very French, and yummy. Because it's a fabulous date place, even if you're not on a date.

Le Réconfort
37 rue du Poitou, Paris 3ème
metro: Saint Sébastien Froissart
01.49.96.09.69

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RESTAURANT: Les Philosophes
Because of the Tarte Tatin à la Tomate. Because it's the best place to bring tourists, without paying tourist prices. Because the outside tables are always full and after you've managed to get your hands on one, you feel cool.

Les Philosophes
28 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 4ème
metro: Saint Paul
01.48.87.49.64

Where to go to feel pretty #1

HAIR SALON: Atelier 7
Because it's not a chain, but a boutique salon where you can get your hair done by the owner (Sophie). Because it feels fun and friendly rather than clinical and scary. Because I got the best haircut of my life there on a day when I was feeling like crap (so the stakes were extremely high).

Atelier 7
7 rue Saint-Claude, Paris 3ème
metro: Saint Sébastien Froissard
01.44.59.39.83

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SPA: Comfort Zone

Because with its earthy tones and dark wood, you feel relaxed before you've even hit the dressing room. Because after that you still have a gorgeous robe, tea in the lounge area and aromatherapy galore to help you out. Because I almost fell asleep on the heated massage table. Because it's one of those places that's classy without being uncomfortably snooty, or unaffordable. And unlike many places in Paris, it doesn't have a one-month waiting list.

Spa Comfort Zone

49 rue Quincampoix, Paris 4ème

metro: Rambuteau

Open Wednesday to Sunday

01.44.78.64.64

Where to shop for unnecessary desirables #1

SHOES: Ann Tuil
Because it sells shoes - really nice ones from designers like Sergio Rossi. Because it has a nice, small, neighbourhood feel and the guy running the place recognised me on my second visit.

Ann Tuil
103 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3ème
metro: Filles du Calvaire
Opening times appear random but they include Sundays

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SHOES: Prune
Because it sells shoes - really nice ones from designers you've never heard of and can't find anywhere else. Because it feels more like an upscale art gallery than a shoe store. (So really, it counts as a cultural outing.)

Prune
41 rue des Archives, Paris 4ème
metro: Rambuteau
Open whenever I walk past, including Sundays, much to my banker's chagrin

Where to shop for food #1

MARKET: Le Marché des Enfants Rouges
Because its improbable name, a reference to the young pupils of the local orphanage, was coined at the start of the 17th century. Because the concept of choosing your lunch from a motley crew of international food stalls and then settling at one of the large wooden tables to eat with strangers is impossibly charming. Because one of the sweetest things the Boy ever did was order a pizza there just because it was called the "Res Ipsa Pizza" (clearly I'm easy to please when it comes to grand romantic gestures).

Marché des Enfants Rouges
39 rue de Bretagne, Paris 3ème
metro: Filles du Calvaire
Open Tuesday to Saturday

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BAKERY: Berko
Because even though you're living in the Magical Land of Patisserie, sometimes you crave cheesecake. Or cupcakes. Or both. And because when that happens, walking into Berko feels like you've died and gone to frosting heaven.

Berko
23 rue Rambuteau, Paris 4ème
metro: Rambuteau
Open Tuesday to Sunday

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SUPERMARKET: Monop' and Daily Monop'
Because they're open late enough for weary consultants and other non-35-hour-week folk. Because they have loads of fresh, pre-prepared dishes that mean I no longer have to cook when I get home at some ungodly hour and am feeling rather lazy. Because shopping there with my Duane Reade "Bag It For a Greener NY" tote adds a certain element of bobo chic to the experience that is not entirely unpleasant. (The Monop' is a bigger version of the Daily Monop' and more closely resembles a supermarket. Check out the yummy Japanese ice tea imports.)

Monop' and Daily Monop'
Somewhere near you, for example:

135 rue Saint Martin (Monop') Paris 3ème
Metro: Rambuteau
Open Monday to Saturday until midnight

59 rue de Montorgueil (Daily Monop') Paris 2ème
Metro: Etienne Marcel
Open Monday to Saturday until midnight and Sunday until 8pm