Where to dine #4

RESTAURANT: Le Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre
Because it's on the Champs Elysées, but in the middle of a garden, so priceless. Because the terrace lets you soak up the sun. Because the food is just the right kind of slightly pretentious but affordable French that goes so well with that new dress you bought. Because you might be sitting next to a celebrity (a French one, such as Michel Drucker, not a massive superstar, but still).

Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre
10 avenue des Champs Elysées, Paris 8ème
metro: Champs Elysées Clémenceau, Franklin Roosevelt
01 42 65 85 10

*

CAFE / ORGANIC MARKET: Rose Bakery

Because there's one in Montmartre (the original) and now one in the Marais. Because everybody else has already been there. Because everything is delicious and healthy. Because once you're done with lunch, you can also buy all your organic veggies and Rooibos tea. Because it's a sign that good things happen when the British and the French make not war but love, and cafés.

Rose Bakery

46 rue des Martyrs, Paris 9ème or 30 rue Debelleyme, Paris 3ème

metro: Pigalle or Filles du Calvaire

01 42 82 12 80 or 01 44 78 08 97‎

*

RESTAURANT: Les Bouquinistes

Because it's one of the "affordable" Guy Savoy restaurants, and the food tastes almost as good at the much more expensive mother shop (although slightly less surprising). Because ordering the 75€ tasting menu means embarking on a 3-hour long pleasure cruise for the palate. Because it is everything that fine French cuisine is about. Because if you take a date here, you're guaranteed to score.

Les Bouquinistes

53 quai des Grands Augustins, Paris 6ème

metro: Saint Michel

01 43 25 45 94

Where to check out some art #1

MUSEUM: La Pinacothèque
Now showing Edvard Munch, l'Anti-Cri
Because the Pinacothèque is famous for its very unique approach to tried and tested masters. Because the Munch exhibit is fascinating. Because The Scream is not in it and so you have to focus on all the other stuff. Because you'll finally be able to have an opinion on Munch (Res loves him now). Because you can download the exhibit guide as an App. Because the gift shop is fun.

La Pinacothèque
28 place de la Madeleine, Paris 8ème
metro: Madeleine
Edvard Munch expo on until July 18

*

MUSEUM: Jacquemart André

Now showing Du greco à Dali, collection de Perez Simon

Because it's got Frick Collection thing going, as in it's the house of art collectors (husband and wife team) and, like the Frick Collection, the house is probably the best part. Because the current expo is very original, and gives you a rapid but educational view into Hispanic painting from the 15th century to the 20th. Because it too, has an App. Because the salads (and the cakes) at the museum café are to die for.

Musée Jacquemart André

158 boulevard Haussman, Paris 8ème

metro: Miromesnil

Du Greco à Dali expo on until August 1

Where to set up your laptop #1

Maybe you're writing a novel (and what better place to be doing that than Paris?) Maybe you're playing hookie from work. Maybe you just like to stay connected. Whatever the reason, here are a few of my favourite free wifi places around town.

CAFE: Au Carillon
Because writing a novel in Montmartre is so much of a cliché it's actually cool. Because the walls are covered with lyrics and autographs of rock bands (including Phoenix, which is actually French. Mais oui.) Because it's often more full of locals than tourists (no mean feat in this neighbourhood). Because there are plugs everywhere for your computer. Because service is nonchalant, in a really good way.

Au Carillon
1 rue des Abbesses, Paris 18ème
metro: Abbesses, Pigalle

*

CAFE: Delyan

Because it feels like a French version of an English tea room. Because all the tables and chairs are different and the walls are green. Because there are couches upstairs. Because the "Formule tea time" is yummy and only 7 euros for a drink and a home-made cake. Because they have Rooibos tea (my fave, and very hard to find in Paris). Because people tend to stay here for hours and no one ever tries to make them leave. Because you're next to the Tour Saint Jacques which is one of the most overlooked treasures of Paris.

Delyan

8 rue Saint Martin, Paris 4ème

metro: Chatelêt, Hotel de Ville

*

CAFE: Café Livres

Because there are books everywhere. Everywhere. And you can read them if you like if you're tired of trying to write one. Because the owner is likely to start chatting to you when you get writer's block. As is the guy who delivers the bread three times a day. Because brunch is lovely and doesn't make you feel like you'll never be able to eat again. Because it too is next to the Tour Saint Jacques.

Café Livres

10 rue Saint Martin, Paris 4ème

metro: Chatelêt, Hotel de Ville

*

CAFE: Pain Quotidien

Because even though it's a chain (and we don't like chains here at Res Ipsa's Paris), the Montorgueil branch just has that little something special during weekdays that makes it a perfect spot to while away the afternoon hours. Because the salads are delicious. Because the waitresses go out of their way to find you somewhere to plug in the laptop. Because you can get a big wooden table to yourself to spread your papers out on. Because it's on the rue Montorgueil and there are always interesting people to chat with (or eavesdrop on) there.

Pain Quotidien

2 rue des Petits Carreaux, Paris 2ème

metro: Sentier, Etienne Marcel

Where to dine #3

RESTAURANT: Frenchie
Because the 20-odd spots in this tiny, cozy treasure chest of a restaurant are some of the most sought-after in Paris. Because the menu changes every day so you can keep going back. Because if there are two of you, you can order everything on it. And you should. Because even if you're an unemployed, struggling author, you can still afford it.

Frenchie
5 rue du Nil, Paris 2ème
metro: Sentier
01.40.39.96.19

***

RESTAURANT: Café Charlot

Because it is one of the many new spots in this area that will give you the sudden feeling of being transported to New York's LES, but with great French food (for a similar ambiance, see Drôle d'endroit pour une rencontre on the Rue Montorgueil). Because it's simple, friendly, and full of fun locals who come back, again and again. Because you'll never want to leave and no one will make you.

Café Charlot

38 rue de Bretagne, Paris 3ème

metro: Filles du Calvaire

01.44.54.03.30

Where to dine #2

RESTAURANT: Les Gars dans la Cuisine

Because the deco is 70s kitsch meets 00s gay über-cool. Because the dishes are classic with a trendy twist. Because the prices are ridiculously low and the ingredients mouth-wateringly fresh.

Les Gars dans la Cuisine

72 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3ème

metro: Rambuteau, Filles du Calvaire

01.42.74.88.26

***

CREPERIE: Breizh Café

Because they're the best crêpes in Paris. Because this place does both traditional and not-quite-traditional-but-you-wonder-why-no-one-thought-to-put-those-things-together-on-a-crêpe-before. Because the smallest eater I know finished her main course AND her dessert when we went there. It's that good. (PS: I recommend you book in advance!)

Breizh Café

109 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3ème

metro: St Sébastien Froissard

01.42.72.13.77

***

RESTAURANT / BAR: Au Rocher de Cancale

Because downstairs it's full of pretty young things, loud music and strange art on the walls. Because upstairs it's actually quiet enough to notice the place is 150 years old. Because it's fun to have fusion food in an 1850s setting.

Update: And because it was apparently a favourite of Paris' first restaurant critic, Grimod, in his 1805 Almanach: see here.

Au Rocher de Cancale

78 rue Montorgueil, Paris 2ème

metro: Etienne Marcel

01.42.33.50.29

***

RESTAURANT / HOTEL: Hôtel Amour

Because it's a brothel. Because now you're just dying to check whether or not I'm kidding. Because they have macaroni & cheese and one of the best restaurant terraces in Paris. (Oh, and the hotel looks pretty nice too, though I haven't tried it myself).

Hôtel Amour

8 rue Navarin, Paris 9ème

01.48.78.31.80

metro: Saint-Georges, Pigalle

Where to enjoy the summer #1

CAFE TERRACE: Le Relais de la Butte
Because the panoramic view of Paris will make you giddy. Even if you live here. Even if the service leaves to be desired. Because let's face it, you're in Montmartre, sipping a fruit cocktail, feeling Amélie-esque and basking in sunshine and everyone wants to be you.

Le Relais de la Butte
12 rue Ravignan, Paris 18ème
metro: Abbesses (that's right, not even my neighbourhood!)

***

SPOT: Paris Plage

Because while I know what you're thinking, it's actually wonderful. Because the monuments are all around you but you're pretending to be on a beach. Because if you nab a table at the ad hoc crêperie between the Pont Louis-Philippe and the Pont d'Arcole, you can sip a glass of off-pink wine with the Seine at your feet and the sun setting over the bridges. Because they have loads of other things too (pétanque, boats, etc) if you're feeling a bit more active.

Paris Plage

Along the river stretching out on both sides of Hôtel de Ville

Hurry, it ends August 20th!

Where to dine #1

RESTAURANT: Derrière
Because all I can tell you is It's Just Really Cool. That's all I'm going to say. And because of the Narnia wardrobe. I'm really not telling you anything else. Just go. (Oh, and the fish is excellent).

Derrière
69 rue des Gravilliers, Paris 3ème
metro: Arts et Métiers
01.44.61.91.95

***

RESTAURANT: Le Réconfort
Because I've been going here for years, and even though the place has abandoned its cutesy-colourful look in favour of designer-chic, the menu has essentially stayed the same. Because said menu is printed inside second-hand books. Because the food is simple, very French, and yummy. Because it's a fabulous date place, even if you're not on a date.

Le Réconfort
37 rue du Poitou, Paris 3ème
metro: Saint Sébastien Froissart
01.49.96.09.69

***

RESTAURANT: Les Philosophes
Because of the Tarte Tatin à la Tomate. Because it's the best place to bring tourists, without paying tourist prices. Because the outside tables are always full and after you've managed to get your hands on one, you feel cool.

Les Philosophes
28 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 4ème
metro: Saint Paul
01.48.87.49.64